LET TAKE A LOOK

Once the poster child of African development, Côte d'Ivoire has fallen on hard times. The country has always had enviable exports but is now massively in debt, thanks to spendthrift bureaucrats and collapsing crop prices. Côte d'Ivoire is still figuring out how to recapture its former days of gloire. Economics aside, Côte d'Ivoire's powerful draw card is its people, so if you're interested in African history, art or music, this is the place to be. There's also a lot of physical beauty to take in, including the mountainous region around Man, the fascinating Senoufo area around Korhogo, Comoë National Park (West Africa's largest) and the remote fishing village and beaches of Sassandra. All these places are easily reached on some of the best roads in Africa.


Environment

With an area about the size of Germany, squarish Côte d'Ivoire is bordered on the south by the Atlantic Ocean, on the east by Liberia and Guinea, to the north by Mali and Burkina Faso, and on the west by Ghana. Except for the western hill country around Man, Côte d'Ivoire is mostly flat. The coastal area is notable for an inland lagoon that starts at the Ghanaian border and stretches 300km (190mi) along the entire eastern half of the coast.

In the south is Yamoussoukro, the country's capital, and the cocoa and coffee farms that grow Côte d'Ivoire's major export crops. Around them are remnants of the rainforests that once covered the entire southern area; the land becomes savannah farther north. The expansion of agricultural lands poses a major threat to the country's diverse flora and fauna. Rainforests are being cut down at the highest rate in the world; the only remaining virgin forest is in the 3600 sq km (1400 sq mi) Taï National Park in the far south-western corner of Côte d'Ivoire. The timber industry is the main culprit; hardwood exports are on a level with those of Brazil, a country 20 times larger.

Côte d'Ivoire is humid and tropical along the coast and semi-arid in the north, with three distinct seasons. The country is warm and dry from November to March; hot and dry from March through May; and hot and wet from June through October; July is wettest of all. From early December to February, the harmattan winds blow sand south from the Sahara, reducing visibility in the northern mountain regions.


When to Go

In February, the Fêtes des Masques (Festival of Masks) takes place in scattered villages in the Man region. Not to be missed is mid-April's Fête du Dipri, held in Gomon, 100km (60mi) north-west of Abidjan, when the entire village vigourously exorcises their homes of evil spells. A peaceful time to go is the cool, dry period from November to February, though shutterbugs will get much better photos in the rainy season from May to October. The tourist season tends to be from December to March and, to a lesser extent, the months of November and April.


Facts for the Traveller

Visas: All visitors need a visa except for nationals of Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, Norway, Sweden, the UK and the US.
Health risks: A vaccination is required for yellow fever, and another for cholera if there's an outbreak.
Time: GMT/UTC
Electricity: 220V, 50Hz
Weights & measures: Metric


Money & Costs

Currency: West African CFA franc (CFA)
Relative costs:

  • Budget meal: US$1-5
  • Moderate restaurant meal: US$5-15
  • Top-end restaurant meal: US$15-30

  • Budget room: US$6-12
  • Moderate hotel: US$12-80
  • Top-end hotel: US$80 and upwards

The CFA franc is fixed against the French franc and is the principal currency for all of French-speaking West Africa. France's recent 100% devaluation of the CFA has brought down the cost of living. A bare minimum budget for travellers is US$10 a day for clean but simple accommodation and excellent street-stall food. Finding cheap restaurants isn't always easy, and if you insist on eating Western food and staying in fancier accommodation, you'll need closer to US$30-40 a day. For top hotel accommodation and nights out on the town, budget about US$100 a day. Renting a car requires another US$100 a day.

The airport bank offers decent rates, so change money there if you arrive by plane. Otherwise, before changing money, it definitely pays to shop around for the best rates, as some banks offer excellent rates but also charge high commissions, while others charge no commissions but offer significantly lower rates. The French usually have no trouble obtaining cash with credit cards, as the cards are issued by French banks affiliated with those in Côte d'Ivoire; travellers from other countries may find this more difficult.

There are few clear rules about tipping. Africans are not in the habit, but rich people (ie tourists) are expected to give a cadeau (gift) of a tip. Even Africans are expected to tip 10% at upmarket restaurants, but check the bill closely first to see if service is included. Travellers are expected to tip taxi drivers about 10%, except for rides in shared cabs.


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